WoW Woman in Textile Industry I Barbara Shepherd, Principal lecturer at Manchester Metropolitan University and Head of Business Engagement at the Manchester Fashion Institute
Barbara Shepherd is a Principal Lecturer at Manchester Metropolitan University and Head of Business Engagement at the Manchester Fashion Institute. She is chair of the Steering Group for the E-Textiles network. Barbara is a Fellow of the Textile Institute and a recognised garment manufacturing specialist.
Barbara, tell us a bit about your background and your projects so far.
The focus of my work at the university is to support and develop the textile and garment industries to deliver research expertise that transfers cost benefits for these industry sectors. Research projects in the wearable technology sector include collaborative projects with academia and industry to deliver end-to-end solutions that are commercially viable. Current work in wearable technology relates to my role with the government’s UK Make Team for the development and UK manufacturing of PPE post the pandemic. This includes collaborative research projects with leading UK universities and UK Manufacturers covering several PPE products. I am also involved in a UK-wide bid proposal for Digital Supply Chain Management with my focus being on the textile sector. I am the Principal investigator on a Knowledge Transfer Partnership (KTP) for Wearable Technology for a UK-based wearable technology manufacturer.
I am a signatory of Textiles 2030 for the University and have applied for a position on the Advisory Board. I am the Chair of the Steering Group for the e-textiles network and have a key interest in the sustainability of E-textiles and the need to consider the end of life and disposal from the initial design development stage.
How did you get into this industry? Has it been an easy industry to get into or have you had many challenges?
I started my career as a garment supplier for the UK Fashion Retail sector. I have over 30 years of commercial experience working across all garment product sectors. I have a clear understanding of both UK and international garment supply chains and their associated complexities and issues. There have been lots of challenges in my textile career and after being headhunted 3 times and been made redundant twice I set up my own consultancy business in 2008. The university approached me to come and work for them and I still run my consultancy business alongside my part-time role at the University. This can be very challenging at times as you are continually prioritising commercial contract work whilst delivering the requirements for my academic role. Making yourself take time off is always a challenge for anyone who runs their own business, but it is important to make sure you get the balance right
How long did it take you to be where you are now?
I have worked with the university since 2010 starting as an associate lecturer and have developed my role and my academic career using the experience that I have gained during my 25+ years of industrial experience in the garment industry which has enabled me to establish my position as a government recognised garment manufacturing specialist.
What was the biggest obstacle?
The biggest obstacle in the development of my career has been myself. Until I came back into academia, I really thought I knew it all and had nothing more to learn about my industry. To survive in the garment industry, you need to be tough and resilient but there are smarter ways to work, the world is changing so fast you need to always be open to learning about new technology and its application. Wearable Technology is the future and I am keen to work with developers and manufacturers to ensure that we can commercialise and deliver its potential benefits for our industry sector.
What are the challenges of being in the industry you are in?
I see the main challenges of our sector being the speed of technological developments and how we can effectively apply them in a cost-effective way to deliver benefits for manufacturers and consumers. The development of a sustainable supply chain for the textile and garment sector is a global challenge for our industry and the implementation of digital technology within this supply chain will be a key enabler for us to meet the WRAP Textiles 2030 sector targets.
What are your biggest achievements to date?
For the last year, the focus of my work has been around the development of PPE working at both a regional and national level. I am working collaboratively with other leading UK Universities and regionally with Invest NI, Industry Wales, and Scottish Enterprise.
In relation to textile sustainability, I have led a major collaborative project with MCFC during the pandemic.
This work included co-design with clinical practitioners, parents of sick children, and UK manufacturers to develop a sustainable theatre gown for children.
What are the projects you are currently working on?
The current projects that I am working on relate to the development of UK manufactured PPE. The government’s current target of 70% of PPE to manufactured in the UK will be a key focus for my work going forward. This work will include wearable technologies as we need to refocus on reusable PPE and be able to track it effectively with the NHS and social care sectors. The laundering of PPE will also offer opportunities for wearable technologies to track products and determine the end of life of anti-bacterial fabric finishes.
Is the #WomenInTech movement important to you and if yes, why?
YES –Women are creative, efficient, and hardworking and will share best practices. I am interested in the development of my industry sector and see technology as the driving force that will support change and improve processes and performance. It is important as women in this industry space that we share and work well together. Women are naturally better at this and we should use our combined networking capability to help each other but also to move the technology forward in a way that will deliver benefits for our respective industry sectors. Collaboration is key as the answers to the problems in my sector are probably already out there in another one. We need to work together for all our mutual benefit.
What will be the key trends in your industry in the next five years and where do you see them heading?
It is no longer about what the technology can do but more about how the technology can deliver what the end-user requires. Key trends in my sector relate to the growth of online shopping and the increased demand for customisation and bespoke fit. These can offer opportunities for the e-textile sector which need to be researched and developed.
Responsible consumption is a growing trend that is being driven by younger consumers who have a growing awareness of sustainability and the negative impacts that my industry sector has on climate change
The challenges associated with textile waste and its negative environmental impact is a key trend and needs to be a key focus for my sector which now needs to consider the additional PPE challenges that have resulted from the pandemic.
What is the most important piece of advice you could give to anyone who wants to start a career in this industry?
Work hard and challenge yourself and keep up to date with what is happening in your sector both locally and internationally. Networking is very important, put yourself outside your comfort zone as that is when you will really learn and meet the kind of people that will inspire and develop you. It is important to find a good mentor and keep in regular contact as this will help you develop your sector skills.
Who are three inspirational women in your respective industry you admire?
Lorna Fitzsimons: Lorna is co-founder of The Pipeline and had become a trusted advisor to big-cap companies and Whitehall on gender and developing executive female talent. She is also a Board member of the UK Fashion Textiles Association, UKFT, Greater Manchester Local Enterprise Partnership
Kate Hills - Make it British: Kate Hills is the founder of Make it British, a platform to help UK manufacturers and British-made brands find more customers.
Sinéad Burke: Writer and academic and disability activist, popular for her TED Talk ‘Why design should include everyone' She is the Director of a consulting organisation that works to raise the baseline standards of inaccessibility, to design an equitable and accessible world.
Find out more about E-Textiles Network here.
This interview was conducted by Marija Butkovic, Digital Marketing and PR strategist, founder, and CEO of Women of Wearables. She regularly writes and speaks on topics of wearable tech, fashion tech, IoT, entrepreneurship, and diversity. Follow Marija on Twitter @MarijaButkovic and read her stories for Forbes here.